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“I’m at the store a lot and it’s been great because it allows me to spend time in the fitting room with my customers,” said Beckham, relaxed but focussed went we met in New York the day before her autumn/winter 2015 show. “The interesting thing is that our customer is buying a lot of runway looks. I wasn’t sure how much people would buy into the ‘fashion’ but that is what our customer wants – it’s the first thing to sell out.”
Perhaps that’s why Beckham has gone back to basics with her latest collection, setting her sights firmly on dresses – the item with which she launched her label in 2008. They’re sexy dresses, too, exhibiting a sensuality she’s sought to eschew of late. “I wanted a new translation of the dress – I wanted a sexy dress. I’m using that word so much today,” she laughed, sounding surprised, as she showed me a patchwork robe of corduroy, velvet and plissé organza cut slightly away from the body. “I feel like the more ‘in fashion’ I get, the more I wear coats and hats and trousers and boots and this and that” – she mimes loading herself up – “and actually working on this collection has made me think, I want to be a bit more sexy.”
The other buzzword this season, according to Beckham, is “bounce”. Twisted cut-away tops in cream and khaki spongy fabrics, tweed coats with twisted hems and blanket skirts with angled panels – each demonstrated the fresh bounciness, the ease of movement she wanted for autumn. The chunky-heeled ankle boots that went with each look, now designed in-house by Beckham, added a perky swagger to the models’ gaits. Equally successful were the mannish double-breasted navy cocoon coats with neat horn buttons; the herringbone coat with a bustle at the hip; the chunky cream and navy sweaters with ballooning sleeves; and the skirt made out of cream velvet bows – VB’s answer to the “modern day red carpet” conundrum when worn with a simple chenille sweater. Sure, it’s not a problem that vexes most of us, but she’s got all her bases covered.
Backstage after the show Beckham, dressed in a black wrap skirt from the collection with a cosy black knit, talked about her VB girl being “all grown up”. Even her most juvenile supporters would agree: her three-year-old daughter Harper insisted on operating her father David’s camera during the catwalk show, to the amusement of her neighbour Anna Wintour. Meanwhile suited and booted Brooklyn and Romeo snapped away like fashion week pros on their iPhones. Only Cruz looked overawed by the event. “Was it good?” Victoria asked David as he gave her a post-show congratulatory kiss. “It was great,” he replied. He wasn’t wrong.
